Strange Creatures of the Coastal Path

 

 

The rare Newport Dragon enjoying the sea view

The access to the coastal path at Goldcliffe at first glance is not promising.  After driving along countryroads with very little signage you just appear to come to the literal "end of the road." A flight of steps ahead of you takes you to the sea wall and the coastal path.  Cars park on the roadside and on busy summer days the row can extend quite a way down the road.

One person has decided to imrove the facilities. A small shop and garden cafe has been created for the many thirsty walkers who may have forgotten to take their own refreshments. Tables and chairs adorn her garden, along with fairies, toads, dragonflies, butterflies and all sorts of creatures. Service is provided with a friendly smile. Fresh cream scones were on the menu when I last visited. Her first attempt, but excellent!




The even rarer multi-coloured rhinoceros.

The cafe garden is not the only place for strange and unexpected creatures and objects. They appear to abound in this small section of pathway. Has the quality of the sea water something to do with it?

Rarest of all, husband with a giant anchor.

 

 

Castlemartin Range Walk, South Wales

Ebbw Fach Treckers Trip to Castlemartin,

14 July 2013 

Quarter to eight, names and details were taken at Llanhilleth, and we boarded the coach for Pembrokeshire.  More eager faces awaited us at Aberbeeg, complete with walking boots, socks and despite the extremely sunny forecast, I suspect a few waterproofs.

The journey was taken up with chatting with old friends, updates on TV programmes and adventures shared on previous walks.

Carew Castle

Carew Castle will remain an image in the minds of most.  No time to visit the actual site, but the public conveniences opposite.  It was our comfort break before the final destination where only a few bushes would be available for anyone in need. 

Our arrival at the entrance to Castlemartin base was greeted by two tanks;  a Chieftain and a Romulus, which flanked the main gates.

Peter and Nickie our Pembroke National Park Leaders completed the formalities for the walk and entering a restricted zone, then lead us onto the site.

As the troops use live ammunition during training, there is a “safe zone” for walkers.  We were warned to stay between the Cliff edge and the white markers, and to touch nothing that looked remotely like armaments or ammunition, no matter what their condition.

Our first encounter was the smell of guano from an offshore island.  It appeared only as we reached the cliff edge, covered with hundreds of seabirds.

What, at first, appeared to be extensive grassland, on closer examination was full of wild flowers and birds.  Wild thyme flowers in pink and white made vivid exclamation marks in the grey limestone, while deep pink and purple orchids hid in the long grass.

We played “follow the leader” through the grass to see a huge blowhole which extended down through the cliff. We could see the rocks below shining in the sun, but in stormy weather the sea is forced up through to spray onto the surrounding area.

Blow-hole in the cliff from beach level

Further along a rock of layers of limestone revealed changing faces as we passed.  Was it a red Indian, or a boxer with a broken nose?   A welcome lunch break allowed time to enjoy the pleasant sea breeze and spectacular views.  With temperatures around 24-28 degrees, the cliff top was an ideal place to sit.

Indian Chief or Boxer with a broken nose ?

Progress along the Pembroke coastal Path revealed a modern day army fort and the remains of an iron age settlement.  Defensive ditches and mounds were only needed to protect part of the site as the sea cliffs made both a pleasant home and protection from strangers.

A few of our group took the opportunity for a welcome cooling paddle at a large sandy bay, the sea breezes masking the heat of the day which we were to experience as we turned back inland to finish our walk.  Houses and farms in the area have been purchased by the MOD, many used during exercises, except, perhaps this old mill.

The Old Mill, now a little damp underfoot

A pleasant half-hour was spent in Bosherston, perhaps to enjoy a cream tea, or see the water lily ponds a few even enjoyed the pleasures of the local hostelry.

Many thanks to both Peter and Nickie of the National Park Authority for an informative and enjoyable 8 mile walk.  Also thanks need to go to Eva and Caroline for organising this away day.

South Wales Beaches are the finest

Whilst visiting the South Wales Valleys, why not visit one of our gorgeous beaches on the south coast.  We have some of the largest, quietest, cleanest and most beautiful beaches in the United Kingdom.

Penarth, enjoy the pebble beach and ice-cream from the seafront cafe.

Barry Island, well-known through the TV series "Gavin and Stacey."
Rossili - three miles of clear, uninterrupted sand with a backdrop of cliffs, and mountain greenery.
Porthcawl - famous for being overrun during "Miners' Fortnight," when many miners families from the valleys made their way to stay in a caravan during the summer shut down.

Use the link to find out more about South Wales beaches.


http://bit.ly/walesbeach

 

Lavernock Point, South Wales

 

 

 

Lavernock beach was a favourite day out in the 1960s and 70s, via St Mary's Well Bay.  Parking in a private car park alongside a caravan park and using precipitice steps.  Rock pools and seaweed surround areas of beach, making it a safe and interesting place for children at low tide, (usual parental supervision recommended).   Rapid underwater currents can make bathing in the sea quite dangerous.  This access has long been denied to the public, but recently we followed signs to Lavernock Point.  

A single track lane leads to a rather disappointing car park for very few cars.  Parking was easy in December, but could prove difficult in high summer, especially with such a narrow access lane.  The coastal path is easily followed eastwards with spectacular views and quite difficult access to the beach, used by anglers.

Near the car park is another beach access, along a small valley, but is quite steep and requires 'sensible footwear.'

The Severn and Bristol Channel converge at this point which was chosen by Marconi, an Italian radio enthusiast.   In 1807 he made the first radio transmission across water from nearby Flat Holm Island to a receiving station at Lavernock Point.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/southeastwales/hi/people_and_places/history/newsid_7847000/7847738.stm

We are looking forward to revisiting this coastal path in dryer weather.  The views along the coast must be fantastic, but in winter the path is more of a stream interspersed with boggy areas.  Not ideal for the jogger that passed, wearing white socks and trainers.

A tantalising stone tower stands on the cliff edge.  Inside, now derelict, it contains Penstock control panels and pumps, possibly for excess water or sewage.  A link below shows pictures of inside.




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lavernock

http://www.blackmountainsite.co.uk/urban-exploration/lavernock-watchtower/

Barry Island, South Wales

Until the Victorian era, when the causeway was built to provide railway access, Barry was really an island.   Today, its more of a Peninsula, but the area has always managed to keep its own unique style.

View from the beach wall
with the tide out, showing people in the distance.

The large shallow beach provides plenty of space for beach activities, although people of an older generation will remember it back-to-back with deckchairs and children digging holes with bucket and spade.   As the tide encroached the squash became more and more with people spilling over onto the already crowded esplanade.   Rain did not deter visitors, their trips already pre-booked with Sunday Schools, Chapels or local Institutes.   Two large pavilions on the esplanade would be crammed with deckchairs, parents in plastic macs, children in bathing costumes, as swimsuits were called back then. Everyone making the most of things, with trays of tea from the cafes, the smell of vinegar on fish and chips in newspaper and the odd stray beach ball bouncing through the chaos.

The TV Series Gavin & Stacey gave the resort a much needed boost, with photographs of the characters popping up all around the area and posters offering 'Celebrity Tours.'

The esplanade looking towards the old Butlins' site

The funfair with its Big Dipper and later the Water Flume, was magical.   Goldfish to be won with pingpong balls as each one expectantly bounced amongst the glass bowls, then disappointment as it fell into an empty glass bowl.   Blood curdling screams echoed from the Ghost Train as travellers encountered cardboard skeletons or cotton cobwebs.

I was sad to hear the owner of the Amusement Park, as it is now known, has plans for a Shopping Precinct - another among many elsewhere.   But rides and attractions are already moving onto the esplanade, replacing the flower clock and rockery.

I remember the excitement of looking in the row of shops at the china momentoes and displays of rock.   Shops unlike anywhere else I had ever been.   Now replaced by fastfood outlets and an amusement arcade.

The esplanade towards the Knap

 

Rhoose Point, most southerly point in Wales

The most Southerly Point in mainland Wales

 

 

 

 

A cliff barrier separates the gravel pits from the sea at Rhoose Point.   At a break in this barrier stands a tall, engraved rock, brought from North Wales purposely to link the north and south.   It punctuates a break in the cliff barrier and overlooks the sea to mark the most southerly point of the Wales mainland.



The cliffs of soft sandstone stand precipitously,  overhanging stone blocks threatening both the rocky seashore and the path on the hinterland.   How long for this cliff barrier to be eroded and the gravel pits become open to the sea?

Naturalisation is making the ponds a beautiful place with water lilies and notices advising care when bathing.   People have brought chairs to spend time enjoying this place, while dogs scamper amongst the bushes seeking out interesting smells.

Follow the coastal path eastwards, taking care at the cliff edge hidden by wizzened hawthorn bushes. 

After twenty minutes or so, a huge quarry cuts a swathe into the land.   Today, firemen are practicing their stretcher skills on the unstable edge.   Their red outfits highlighting their presence amongst the greenery and yellow cliffs, their voices echoing on the slight breeze.

The coastal path continues through a caravan park.   Garden ornaments, pot plants and patios demarking territory and revealing individual taste.   In the 28deg. heat of this wonderful summer day, an icecream van is a welcome encounter, though choice is limited as business has been good.

Across another field and
Porthkerry Country Park
greets us with a steep woodland decent .  Although walking is dry underfoot there is evidence that this slope was a mud slide running with water just a couple of weeks ago.   Porthkerry Park is really popular today with families and dog walkers alike.   There's ample grassland space for cricket, rounders or just running around, while a pitch & put course tempts the less exuberant.   

The long pebble beach provides a quiet place to sit and enjoy a picnic with sea views, or wander and search for 'treasure.'    Aeroplanes seem surprisingly large as they appear over the treetops from Rhoose airport on their way to exotic places.

But today is Thursday, and with the sun shining and children on summer vacation the park is as crowded as a bank holiday.   With the car park and overflow car park full, but despite signs to the contrary, a blind eye is turned to some imaginative parking on the grass verges.

Porthkerry Viaduct dominates the overflow car park.   It was opened for the railway in 1900 after delays as two of the huge stone supports collapsed, but today the stone columns with brick infilled arches, look robust enough for the next 100 yars.

This walk of 2.5 miles has taken around an hour and after a coffee we will make our way back.

http://www.barrywales.co.uk/porthkerry.htm

http://www.valeofglamorgan.gov.uk/living/environment/countryside/porthkerry_country_park.aspx

Coastal Path Events & Transporter Bridge

Tides coming in...

Wales Coastal Path will open in May 2012.   Explorers will be able to walk from Chepstow in the south, following the coast for 850 miles to Queensferry in the north.   This glorious asset to Wales will display the wide variety of seascapes around our coastline.   


The gleaming mud flats of the Severn, the golden sands of Swansea, the magnificent Cathedral at St Davids, are a few which come to mind in South Wales, as well as Barmouth and Criccieth Castle in the north.

Wetland mudflats

To celebrate the opening, events are planned for Cardiff, Aberystwyth, and Flint on May 5th.  Contact Helen Howlett via email helen-howlett@monmouthshire.gov.uk.

Newport City Council are planning a

Newport 'City to Sea' Walk

on

Sunday, 6th May 11am-1pm.

extending from the Newport Transporter Bridge to the East Usk Lighthouse at Newport Wetlands, I'm sure it will provide an enjoyable experience with some fantastic photo opportunities.

See you there !    

The unusual and iconic Newport transporter bridge was opened in 1906 by Lord Tredegar.   This bridge, now one of only six of its kind still working, in the world, was designed by F. Arnodin, a Frenchman.  

To avoid obstructing the once busy shipping lanes, of the river Usk, the gondola, which carries passengers and traffic from bank to bank, is suspended on a steel structure high above the river banks.   The height above river level may, at first, appear excessive, but this river boasts one of the highest tides in the country.

Closed in 2008, a £1.2 million restoration saw the bridge reopened on 30 July 2010 and although only open for 193 days during the following year, 40,000 crossings were recorded by pedestrians, cyclists, motorcyclists, and vehicles.   But progress in the shape of the George Street Bridge and the Southern Distributor Road, opened in 1964 and 2004 respectively, swallowed 80 per cent of the bridge's traffic.  

A controversial decision by Newport Council has recently deemed the bridge a tourist attraction with changes to both the opening times and charges to come.   Access will be available to both the gondola and the overhead walkway.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newport_Transporter_Bridge

  
 Friends of Newport Transporter Bridge:   http://www.fontb.org.uk/