Llanhilleth Heritage Centre

The Llanhilleth Heritage Centre is located at Llanhilleth Miners' Institute near Abertillery. The Centre is manned every Tuesday afternoon from 2.00pm to 4.00pm and anyone interested in the heritage of the Llanhilleth Ward, that's Aberbeeg, Brynithel, Llanhilleth and Swffryd, is welcome to call in and have a chat. 

The aim of the Centre is to preserve and record the heritage of the ward. They have a Community Archive for photographs, documents and digital recordings - a link is given below.  There is a Chronicle of Events which lists many interesting events from the 13th Century to the present day. A few are listed here. Do you have any you can add?

 "Chronicle of Events" 

 1213  the completion of St. Illtyd's 

 2014  Llanhilleth RFC winning their League

 2014  Alun Davies AM opening the Heritage Centre. 

This chronicle will never be complete and the Trustees are always looking for any additional information they can add. Anything interesting about buildings, people, sporting or cultural organistions is more than welcome. Display space is limited but small donated items can be accommodated.


http://llanhilleth.gwentheritage.org.uk/

St Iltyd's Church, Brynithel

Situated 1200 feet above sea level, St Illtyd's Church is Grade 2 listed, and comes with spectacular views across to Welsh valleys.  The first wooden church on this site was erected in the 5th Century. In the late 12th Century the White Monks rebuilt this stone church. Inside you will find a stone font dating back to the 9th Century.

 

Because of the circular churchyard, it is believed that the site may have been used for religious activity before Christianity came to Wales. This churchyard is a conservation area with a variety of rare plants and meadow flowers growing amongst the gravestones.

 

St Illtyd, the patron saint was born in Brittany in 420AD and came to Wales as a Knight and consecrated a Bishop in 463AD. He was also the founder of the Monastery at Llantwit Major and toured Wales preaching until he was killed at Crickhowell. Monks carried his body to Croslands, Mamhilad.

St Illtyd is said by some to have been the first cousin of King Arthur.

Near to the Chuch is a "tump" or a large mound (also known as a "motte") which may have been a fortification. At the rear of the Church, in a nearby field can be seen the remains of a ruined castle, Castell Tailorum, dating to the 13th century. Stories abound of tunnels emanating from this castle to a nearby hostelry and a farm. Both of these structures are on private land, but can be viewed from the churchyard.

Famous visitors to the church include:

Queen Anne

Sarah Churchill

Duchess of Marlborough

Archdeacon Coxe

John Wesley, 18th Century Preacher

King Charles 1st

Oliver Cromwell

The Friends of St Illtyd's work in partnership with Blaenau Gwent Council, ensuring the Church is open on Sunday afternoons (2.30pm to 4.30pm) from Easter to October.

For information from Friends of St Illtyd's Church, tel: 01495 320367
Blaenau Borough Council tel: 01495 355937/355972
www.illtyd.co.uk
email: friends@illtyd.co.uk
tourism@blaenau-gwent.gov.uk
heritage@blaeau-gwent.gov.uk
Access is via valley roads and a steep narrow lane or across the mountain from neighbouring valleys.

St Illtyd's Church,
St Illtyd,
Aberbeeg,
Abertillery,
Blaenau Gwent NP13 2AY

Llanhilleth Miners' Memorial

As you approach Llanhilleth from Swffryd you manoeuvre a sharp horseshoe bend in the road.  To the right is what remains of Llanhilleth Pithead Baths.  If you park alongside and walk under the road to the left-hand side you will find Llanhilleth Miners' Memorial.  Unseen from the road, and surrounded by trees, this area gives the visitor time to think of the men who risked their lives every day to put food on the table and provide Britain and the rest of the world with fuel. 

In the early 1800s this was a farming area with a population of around 250.  By the end of the century its main industry was mining, with a population of around 5000.  People travelled here from neighbouring towns, but also all areas of Wales, Bristol, Somerset and beyond to earn 'big money.'  In twenty years the Depression took hold and people were selling everything they could to buy food and keep warm.

A few years ago, the area surrounding the memorial had become overgrown and unloved, but local volunteers worked to clear the site and reinstate pathways for visitors.

 

Llanhilleth Miners Institute



Recently installed stairway around a lift to all floors

Llanhilleth Miners Institute building is currently protected by a Limited Company.   A wide range of events and private functions are attended by people from all over Gwent and beyond;  rock concerts,business conferences, community groups as well as beautiful private weddings.  


The building was saved from decay as part of a local regeneration project costing millions of pounds.   It has been sympathetically restored to reflect the original building.   This well-loved 100 year old Grade II listed building is now in a condition to last well into the 22nd century.

But this is not the first time this building has been saved.   In the late 1960s Llanhilleth Pit, along with many others was closing.   Financial support through miners' membership contributions greatly diminished as miners became redundant and many moved away.    The committee decided to change their status and become a Social Club, selling alcohol on a daily basis and providing medical and social events for aging and retired miners.   They revamped the building with bright 60s paintwork and created a bar and lounge for the ladies on the upper ground floor.   The billiard hall on the lower groundfloor became a teenage coffee bar, and entertainment, including a very young Tom Jones, was booked to boost takings.  The large arched windows were partly boarded, the ceiling of the large hall lowered and the theatrical stage reduced to cabaret style.

Unfortunately, the brightly coloured wall-boarding masked many problems within the building's structure.   Lack of funding and maintenance with inappropriate materials caused both dry and wet rot, nearly destroying the building.   These have been eradicated by the latest renovations, and the full height of the hall can now be appreciated with its timber structure.

Institute in the distance, circa 1910

In the late 1800s, the population of Llanhilleth had risen to 5,000 from 250 at the beginning of that century.   Llanhilleth Miners Institute were using a small rented building within the village to provide a library, but very little else.   Edmund Jones was a partner in Partridge Jones & Co, who owned Llanhilleth Pit.   Aware there was very little to keep skilled miners within this small overcrowded area, he offered to donate fifty percent of the cost of a custom built structure to provide for their leisure time, provided the miners raised the other fifty percent.   This offer was never taken up, and Edmund died.

In 1904, through loans and a gift, Partridge Jones & Co. provided the bulk of the cost of the current structure.   It was one of the first miners institutes, and one of the first to provide an indoor swimming pool.   The original Abertillery Miners Institute also had a pool, so this could have been the inspiration for Llanhilleth.   

Many would possibly disagree, but I feel we owe a debt of gratitude to this forward thinking coal owner for providing the impetus to the local community for the creation of this heritage building.

The Old Boilerhouse

Huge black crows cawed incessantly amid an otherwise thick clinging silence as the building sank into the lush green vegetation on the banks around it.
The old brick outhouse stood in its own space at the back of the parish church hall, razor wire covering the old corrugated roof, red with rust.   A stark iron railing surrounding the building kept intruders out.   Bypassed by visitors attending jumble sales, coffee mornings and wedding receptions, no-one could remember a time before the building was there, but many couldn't recall it being there at all.   The tall chimney gave out emissions of water vapour, smoke or toxic fumes, no-one was certain.

The old Boilerhouse

The studded black iron door, rust laden, was larger than expected with a heavy iron frame and ancient padlock, but strangely the door handle was shiny and new.

Grass grew around the walls, but the path to the door was well worn although no-one saw anyone enter or leave.

Was it just an old boilerhouse, or was it an elevator shaft leading down to the old welsh mines and caves beneath and then onward to hell itself?

As I stood there watching, enthralled, the door slowly creaked open on its rusty hinges.  I held my breath.   From the dim insides appeared a figure.   Dark and encrusted with soot.   It was the boilerman, carrying his sandwiches and tea.   The crows hopped around waiting for lunch.

It was just an old brick built boilerhouse, sitting in a car park.

Witches Hats & Terracotta Finials

Llanhilleth Miners Institute has been renovated in its original style from 1904 when the foundations were laid.  

Grade II listing was granted in 1999 in recognition of the building being a

"well designed and prominently located former colliery Workmen’s Hall, its detail and large size testament to the importance of the local coal industry during the Edwardian period."

(Grade II being of Regional significance and Grade I of National significance).

Cadw describes the building as follows:

"Cadw Information:  22671 AA     Former Colliery Workmen’s Institute 

The Institute has a range of rooms which are hired by organisations: the Ithel Hall

"capacity 120), the Ebbw Suite (capacity up to 40 depending on layout) and the Youth
Room (capacity up to 20).   Buffets are frequently provided as part of the chargeable
service."

The façade of the building has been described variously as Romanesque, and Queen Anne revival, but everyone agrees it is faced mainly with grey/blue Pennant sandstone with extensive red brick and terracotta detailing and stringing to add relief and interest to the elevations.   All the windows are now restored to their original pattern of the 1906 structure, using much of the original metalwork, although for several years they were partly boarded over to provide square fenestres.  

In 1951 Sir Nikolaus Pevsner (1902-83) started Pevsner’s Architectural Guides.   They provide a portable guide to the most significant buildings around the country.   He felt Llanhilleth Institute was worthy of comment, albeit rather brief.    The full quotation is included below.   There is no mention of the interior or elsewhere in the building, so presumably it was closed at the time of his visit.    It is interesting that he points out the porch as an afterthought.

 “The Institute has a lively facade of two tall storeys over a basement.  
An intricate network of pilaster strips and string courses frames the round
headed windows.   Fancy gable crowned with balls and acroteria.   The
lofty redbrick porch looks like an after thought.”

A fuller description is referenced to S.Eckley, Abertillery and District Museum Society:

“Very prominently located off the east end of Meadow Street, dominating terraces of housing along valley bottom.”

“Simplified Dutch style, built of grey Pennant stone, with extensive red brick detail.   Slate roof with two large ventilators to ridge.   East end gable chimney of red brick;    also low stack on south side.  Two storeys, set on high basement.  Entrance front (west) of five bays, divided by red brick pilaster-strips.   Moulded brick stringcourses between storeys, also at sill and window-head levels.  Moulded brick cornice with shaped gable above, divided into five bays by pilaster strips terminating in terracotta finial at apex.   Clock in centre of gable, with brick surround." 

"Basement and ground floor windows with 20th century glazing, segmental heads, brick surrounds.   Tall round arched first floor widows, brick surrounds and terracotta keystones.   Centre bay has projecting square red brick porch rising to base of gable.  Round arched openings to ground floor stage, with door facing west; windows to sides (door and windows all 20th century)."      Windows now replaced to appear original.

"Tall upper stage of porch has angle-pilasters, with small round windows set high upto each side.   Moulded brick cornice.   North side of six bays and three storeys.   Pilaster strips and stringcourses as front.   Windows as facade, the tall upper windows with smaller windows inserted.   Similarly details south side;  attached towards east end is lower four storey former caretaker’s house, now used as medical centre.  House is of three narrow bays, rendered with brick detail to quoins, and window surrounds:  20th century glazing.  Slate roof and broad south end gable brick chimney stack.”

As you pass by, you may notice black pointed metal structures on the roof.   These were dubbed "witches hats" by Sophie Teague, the architect in charge of the renovation.  

They are part of the ventilation system, allowing air to escape to help control the temperature of the building.     These vents are operated from the large ballroom as in the original design. 

The walls have lime plaster, which needs to 'breathe' and allow moisture to be absorbed and evaporate.   During the 1960s repairs were made using cement.   Unfortunately, this sealed the walls, ensuring any rainwater that soaked in would be trapped, causing dampness and mold.   The latest renovation removed the cement and repointed and replastered with suitable materials.

A very splendid building, worthy of any commercial or private event.

The 'Shale Lorries' of South Wales Valleys

In the late 1950’s Richard Thomas & Baldwin planned to build Spencer Steelworks, later known as Llanwern, near Newport in South Wales.   It opened in 1962 and employed 1600 people.   The planned site was to the east of Moorland Avenue.   The name of the avenue was significant, as prior to building the huge expanse of steel works buildings, the ‘moor’ had to be stabilised by laying millions of tons of hardcore.  

A request went out to the local area for sub-contractors to provide the necessary material.   This was the trigger for entrepreneurs in the South Wales Valleys to become hauliers and buy one or more lorries.   Grocers, entertainers, coalmen, even the retired joined the rush.   With payment on results, two or more drivers often worked in a shift pattern to ensure maximum usage and thus maximum financial reward.   Not satisfied with the amount of slag they could load, owners would often increase capacity by fitting ‘greedy boards.’   These were fastened along the top of the lorry sides increasing their height.   Then they were held together across the top with chains to prevent sagging.    Owners searched the valleys for any unwanted hardcore or stone waste they could take to make a profit.   Slag and red ash tips that had stood for generations from Pontypool to Blaina were swallowed by the marsh.

With no bye-passes or motorways, the result, in the narrow, twisting valley roads and busy villages was frightening.   Local authorities and residents from Abertillery to Newport made continual protests.   People were harassed when trying to cross the road, and deafened day and night, by the constant roar of revving engines of often overloaded lorries, travelling at break-neck speeds along ill suited roads to make their next delivery.    Smelly, steaming loads poured water as they travelled, as the dusty shale had to be dampened down.

Llanhilleth, due to its position, possibly suffered more than most, positioned on two steep hills.  Huge lorries thundered down Commercial Road, towards Crumlin and Newport.   Unfortunately,  the weight-to-power ratio often prevented their acceleration up the other side.   They would stall in the bottom, near the railway bridge, or worse, skid and collide into houses or shops on the way down.

In 1961, Mr Marples, the Minister of Transport, in a written reply to Mr Llywellyn Williams, the Abertillery Labour MP described the project as an “immense road transport operation.”   He revealed the extent of the problem when he explained that between January 1960 and 1961, 980 road accidents involving lorries had occurred, but, he was quick to add, in 750 of those no one had been injured.   Although 18 people had been killed and another 280 injured, Mr Marples commented, according to the The Times, “no accident was on so large a scale as to cause anything approaching a national outcry.”     

After sympathising with the families of the 18 people killed and the 280 injured, we can acknowledge a few advantages: 

Firstly, the disappearance of much of the hundreds of tons of coal waste and slag tips which had towered over the welsh countryside for decades.  

Secondly, the hope of the creation of thousands of jobs, ancillary businesses, and a little prosperity by ousting a few hundred wild birds and stabilising an area of Severn marshland.   

The valley landscape was re-emerging, after a time when any free space was used as a dump for waste products from both coal mines and iron works.   Suddenly beautiful views across the valley, masked for decades by hills of grey ash, were visible again.   Children could enjoy a natural beauty barely remembered by their parents or even perhaps their grandparents.

The Aberfan Disaster in 1966 ensured that the remaining spoil heaps and waste tips in the valleys were all thoroughly checked by the National Tip Safety Committee, and a plan created to level them.   Certain valley areas may now, on occasion, look like “Telly Tubby Land,” but can be used for sheep grazing or left to naturalise.   But this fragile grass environment can so easily be destroyed, as can be seen from the black grooves and ridges created by off road motorbikes and four-wheel drive vehicles selfishly enjoying this landscape.

Llanwern steel works opened in 1962, and its prospects have varied greatly over the years since.