Gelligaer Common, South Wales in October

Shrouded in cloud and fog, Gelligaer Common insisted on hiding its secrets and much of its mystery this week.  

After walking across an exposed, waterlogged landscape, we were asked to imagine ancient tribes erecting the Cefn Stone at the entrance to their settlement.   With no food or healthy drinking water or even building materials in sight, it is difficult to believe.

Standing on the bleak mountainside alone, it remains the only marker of this possibly bronze age homestead.   The stone now rests at an angle of almost 45 deg. due, we are told, to failed attempts by historians in the 18th or 19th century to excavate its secrets.

Out of the mist, a lone off-road cyclist scurries past, watched by sheep and horses who gaze with little interest.   Soon the object of their gaze will become the subject of a 'Helicopter Heroes,' episode, unless he is very well aquainted with his route across this pockmarked landscape.




A little way away, the cloud still masks the mountain, but Capel Gwladys slowly appears.   A standing stone carved with celtic basket weave (probably about 30 years old,) marks the spot of a church established Circa 430AD.



As our walking group approaches up the slope, we could have been following the path of worshippers from two thousand years earlier.   Although in these weather conditions, this appears a relatively isolated, peaceful spot, for a Christian Church to have been built here would have required quite a large and dedicated congregation.

Is it here she died?

Is it here she lies,

Gwladys.

Shrouded in mist,

buried in time,

this Celtic Princess.

Tales retold

memories reborn.

A million faces

shine through the mist

trying to see history,

to see Gwladys.



Bank of Roman Stockade

Remaining bank from Roman Stockade

David, our Leader, explained how Roman Soldiers were expected to march out of camp and build a stockade to spend the night before returning.  










Originally a formidable structure, surrounded by an earth bank within a ditch, dug four feet deep, and topped with wooden stakes it would have been patrolled by Roman guards.    The remains of the stockade, gently sloping grassy mounds, are pointed out to the unwary observer, and lie invisible from the roadway.


Amid much talk of ghosts, I wonder how would those soldiers have felt, digging these trenches after marching all day, each carrying a full pack including wooden stakes.

Its difficult for us to imagine these men working and camping here and achieving so much.   But did they ever think their work would be inspected in the twentieth century?  



 
These soldiers in thonged leather sandals, tunics and hand-tooled metal helmets would never have believed that people wearing  man-made fibres, and waterproof Gore-Tex Boots would be recording the remains of their work using digital cameras, phones and Ipads and then clambering into a purple diesel-engined coach.

My first visit to Gelligaer Common, despite the fog and low cloud, has been truly inspirational.  

Blaenavon Mountain & Keepers Pond

The heritage town of Blaenavon lies as the head of the Eastern Valley.   Its prosperity in the nineteenth century was mainly due to the mountain slopes above the town, rich in both iron and coal.   Much of the industrial landscape is disappearing, but can still be seen by the observant onlooker.  

The autumn sun on the black slag heaps reveal deep ridges imposed by running water and weathering.    Many large bowl-shaped indentations which offer shelter for grazing sheep, are the result of early mining.    Now covered mainly in heather and whimberry bushes these dips were once bell-pits which have now collapsed in on themselves.   This mountain is located on the eastern rim of the South Wales Coalfield.   A miner could dig a hole and collect coal from just under the surface soil.  Gradually the hole would become deeper and wider as more coal was removed.   Without any support for the roof of this bell-pit it would eventually collapse, forming a bowl-shaped indentation.

The Keepers Pond,  was constructed as a feeder pond for local industry.   Now people enjoy the scenery, and perhaps sail model boats on the pond.   There are many walks around the area.   Colonel Llewelly, an avid showjumping champion in the1950s with his horse Foxhunter.   When the horse died his owner buried him on the mountain, just a short walk away, and a plaque identifies the horses burial place.

On a clear day, hang-gliders can be seen launching themselves from the steep slopes and enjoying the thermals above Gilwern.

Car drivers need care as sheep wander this Common land without any Highway Code training.   They often sleep in the road or unpredictably cross over to be with friends.   This can result in an expensive encounter for an unwitting car or van driver.

Keen eyes may spot the previously mentioned delicious whimberries amongst the ground cover.  Similar in appearance to blueberries, they taste good in pies or just with cream.   Many locals have their own secret spot for picking, where they claim the whimberries grow the size of walnuts.   You may doubt this, unless you can find someone willing to show you where...

 

Pen-y-Fan Pond, Manmoel, South Wales

Pen-y-Fan Pond gleams in the sunshine.   Its surrounded by the golden tints of autumn, but still enjoyed by families taking a walk around the perimeter and perhaps exercising their dogs.   Both children and dogs can run free but still be within sight of parents and owners.  Care is needed, though, as the pond is unfenced.

After this very wet summer there are many streams and marshy areas, so sturdy footwear is required, unless you intend to remain on the tarmac pathway.

Despite being within stone-throwing distance of Pen-y-Fan Inedustrial Park, this Countryside Park is surrounded by fields and trees.

As you approach the pond from the car park area, a notice on the toilet block advises they are only open April till September 10am-5pm.   The park is pleasantly full today and its 14th October !! 

Pen-y-Fan Pond was created a country park in 1976, and is used for fishing, sailing and canoeing.

'Machines' along the Alien Invasion Trail

An 'Alien Invasion Trail' footpath around the pond keeps children's interest, allowing parents to enjoy the Manmoel countryside. The alien signposts are now showing extreme wear and vandalism, but their original intention to provide education on local wildlife in an interesting way, can still be understood and hopefully explained by interested parents.  But the adventure of trying to find the next amid the undergrowth still remains.

Kissing Gate towards Trinant

A little further along the path a small pathway leads off to a kissing gate.   Go through the gate and cross the road to a small lane.   Bear left and it will lead down over a slope to Trinant village.   Turn left at the bottom and follow the road around to find Pentwyn Inn - with an open area in front and several benches outside.

The best and last complete example of a canal feeder reservoir in South Wales, this pond was created in 1745.   It served as feeder pond for the Crumlin arm of the Monmouthshire Canal until the 1850s, when the canal was replaced by rail.    Trains was far more efficient for carrying coal and iron to the port of Newport for transfer along the river Severn and its estuary, or for export.

The Country Park was Part funded by the Welsh Assembly Government.
Further information from Planning@Caerphilly.Gov.Uk
Tel: 01495 235219

A Grocer's Life

A grocer owned the corner shop in our village, and this is how I remember him.   This piece was partly inspired by Stud Terkel’s interview with Babe Secoli in his book “Working,”

When Mam ran the shop just after the War, I used to deliver groceries after school.   “Get an education, Son.   Get up out of the muck.”   But I wanted to work in the shop with me brown overall standing safe and proud behind that wooden counter, not getting buried down the pit or covered in grease fixing cars.

Mam’s house was part of the shop.   I was brought up there.   That’s how I felt - part of the shop.   Then when she died in the sixties, well, the shop just spread into the house.   I made it self-service.   Help yourself.   Put a stack o’baskets by the door.

I’m eighty now, still serving in the shop.   Nothing like it.   I love it. 
“Why not retire?” they say.
“To do what?” I ask.    I don’t want holidays.  You get old doin’ nothin’.   Open up at six to catch the workers.   Few and far between now.   I do ‘em bacon sandwiches, baguettes they call ‘em.   Then it’s the school run.
“What can I have for 20p?”    Not a lot!
I hate it when they bring dogs in.    I say “OUT!”    Cocking their leg.

I love it when we get the kids in, running errands.   “Can I have a loaf of bread, please?”
“There’s 12p change,” I say.  “You could have two 6p toffee sticks, or four 3p black bubblegums, or twenty-four half-p chews.”
“Mummy said I must take the change home.”
There’s the challenge.   Can I break them?   Sales technique over nurture.

You have  to sell yourself or you’ll never sell anything.   Bloke this week wanted Country Life butter.   I said “I got Anchor, same difference.”
He said, “No.   Country Life.”
I said, “Anchor’s better.”
“The wife won’t want Anchor.”
“Made from full cream,” I said.   “No additives like Country Life.”
Yes, you have to sell yourself and no mistake.

Bloke in the Off Licence couldn’t sell ‘isself.  “Ain’t got none o’ that.”   “No children!”   “No credit!” Soon went down the pan. No idea of doing business.

Credit’s another thing.    Do it right and they’re with you for good.   Paying for last week’s while taking this week’s.    Never catch up.   They’re with you for good.   Becomes a way of life – like mother, like daughter, even granddaughter, all buying on tick.

Police come once, throwing their weight about.   Couldn’t touch me.   Course I sell half-price cakes.   They’re damaged.   Fell off the back of a lorry.   You gotta laugh, don’t you?

Got to make a couple o’ bob to keep the shop going.   I like making money  - and just being here.

Llanhilleth Miners Institute



Recently installed stairway around a lift to all floors

Llanhilleth Miners Institute building is currently protected by a Limited Company.   A wide range of events and private functions are attended by people from all over Gwent and beyond;  rock concerts,business conferences, community groups as well as beautiful private weddings.  


The building was saved from decay as part of a local regeneration project costing millions of pounds.   It has been sympathetically restored to reflect the original building.   This well-loved 100 year old Grade II listed building is now in a condition to last well into the 22nd century.

But this is not the first time this building has been saved.   In the late 1960s Llanhilleth Pit, along with many others was closing.   Financial support through miners' membership contributions greatly diminished as miners became redundant and many moved away.    The committee decided to change their status and become a Social Club, selling alcohol on a daily basis and providing medical and social events for aging and retired miners.   They revamped the building with bright 60s paintwork and created a bar and lounge for the ladies on the upper ground floor.   The billiard hall on the lower groundfloor became a teenage coffee bar, and entertainment, including a very young Tom Jones, was booked to boost takings.  The large arched windows were partly boarded, the ceiling of the large hall lowered and the theatrical stage reduced to cabaret style.

Unfortunately, the brightly coloured wall-boarding masked many problems within the building's structure.   Lack of funding and maintenance with inappropriate materials caused both dry and wet rot, nearly destroying the building.   These have been eradicated by the latest renovations, and the full height of the hall can now be appreciated with its timber structure.

Institute in the distance, circa 1910

In the late 1800s, the population of Llanhilleth had risen to 5,000 from 250 at the beginning of that century.   Llanhilleth Miners Institute were using a small rented building within the village to provide a library, but very little else.   Edmund Jones was a partner in Partridge Jones & Co, who owned Llanhilleth Pit.   Aware there was very little to keep skilled miners within this small overcrowded area, he offered to donate fifty percent of the cost of a custom built structure to provide for their leisure time, provided the miners raised the other fifty percent.   This offer was never taken up, and Edmund died.

In 1904, through loans and a gift, Partridge Jones & Co. provided the bulk of the cost of the current structure.   It was one of the first miners institutes, and one of the first to provide an indoor swimming pool.   The original Abertillery Miners Institute also had a pool, so this could have been the inspiration for Llanhilleth.   

Many would possibly disagree, but I feel we owe a debt of gratitude to this forward thinking coal owner for providing the impetus to the local community for the creation of this heritage building.